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Nirah Distributors

Zip ties for fencing

Cable Ties for Fencing

Black UV-stabilized cable ties are a fast, low-cost way to attach wire mesh, deer and garden netting, windscreen and privacy screen, and light or temporary chain link to posts and rails. For permanent chain link, aluminum or steel tie wire and hog rings remain the standard. High-tension fence and livestock pressure need purpose-made fasteners.

Reviewed September 14, 2026 by the Nirah Distributors product team

  • Black UV-stabilized ties only, since fences live in full sun
  • 14 inch 120 lb ties cover most post and rail attachments
  • Tie wire and hog rings for permanent chain link
  • Plan for extra ties: posts take several each, and some will be replaced

What ties are up against in fencing

Years of direct sun

A fence is fully exposed on every side, often for many years. Non-UV ties can fail within a season outdoors. Even UV-stabilized black ties age over time, so plan on periodic inspection, especially on the south and west faces.

Wind load

Open mesh lets wind pass. Windscreen, privacy slats, shade cloth and banners do not, and they can multiply the force on every attachment point and on the fence itself. Screens need closer tie spacing and a fence that is built to carry them.

Animals pushing, rubbing and chewing

Deer lean into netting, dogs dig and jump, and livestock rub on fence lines constantly. A tie that is fine for holding a garden netting panel will not stop a determined animal. Pressure from large animals calls for stronger fence construction and proper fasteners.

Winter cold and brittleness

Nylon gets stiffer when cold and dry. Ties installed in freezing weather are more likely to crack at the head, and ties stored in an unheated truck or shed all winter can snap on install. Store ties somewhere mild and check them after the first hard freeze.

Posts of every shape

Round steel line posts, square posts, wood posts, T-posts and U-channel each hold a tie differently. Ties slide on smooth round posts and need something to bear against, like a fabric wire or brace band, to stay put.

Which tie for which job

Recommendations with the ties we currently stock for each. Use black ties anywhere they'll see sunlight.

Attaching chain link fabric or welded wire mesh to round line posts

14" / 16" · 120 lb · Black

A 14 or 16 inch tie wraps a typical residential line post and still passes through the fabric with tail to pull. The 120 lb rating holds fabric snug for light-duty and temporary installs.

Deer fence, garden netting and bird netting to posts and top wire

8" / 10" / 12" · 120 lb · Black

Poly netting and light mesh do not need long ties, only many of them. The 8 to 12 inch lengths reach around a T-post or a top support wire without a lot of tail to trim.

Windscreen, privacy screen and banners on chain link

8" / 12" · 120 lb · Black

Screens attach through grommets to the fabric or rail, so a short tie is enough. Use the 120 lb ties and close spacing, since screens catch a lot of wind.

Large posts, gate frames and corner posts

24" / 36" · 175 lb · Black

Terminal posts and wood posts are larger in diameter. The 24 and 36 inch ties at 175 lb reach around them, and around a post plus a brace or rail together.

Crews installing long runs of netting or temporary fence

14" · Black · 1,000+ ties per pack

Fence work consumes ties fast. Buying 14 inch ties by the thousand keeps a crew stocked across a job instead of running out mid-run.

Cable ties, tie wire or hog rings: which fastener for which fence

Chain link fence installers have long used aluminum or galvanized steel tie wire to attach fabric to posts and rails, and hog rings to attach fabric to tension wire. Those metal fasteners do not degrade in sunlight and are the standard for permanent chain link. Many fence suppliers say zip ties are best treated as a short-term solution on chain link.

Cable ties earn their place where speed and low cost matter more than decades of service: temporary fence, garden and deer netting, light mesh, screens, repairs until a proper fastener goes on, and DIY projects without fence pliers. They also do not scratch vinyl-coated fabric the way a misapplied steel wire can.

Typical fastener choice by fence type
Fence or jobCommon fastenerWhere cable ties fit
Permanent residential or commercial chain linkAluminum or steel tie wire to posts and rails; hog rings to tension wireTemporary holds during install, or short-term repairs
Temporary chain link panels (job sites, events)Panel clamps and standsScreens, signage, and closing gaps between panels
Poly deer fence and garden nettingCable ties or manufacturer clipsMain fastener, black UV ties
Welded wire or field fence on T-postsT-post clipsLight garden fence; quick repairs
Windscreen and privacy screenCable ties through grommets, or manufacturer tiesMain fastener, closely spaced
High-tensile, woven wire livestock fenceStaples, clips, crimps and wire designed for tensionNot recommended
Electric fenceInsulators rated for the fence chargerNot a substitute for insulators

How to attach fence fabric and netting with cable ties

These steps assume black UV-stabilized ties and a fence that is already set, braced and stretched. Ties hold fabric in place; they do not create tension and should not be asked to stretch it.

  1. 1Stretch the fabric or netting first using a come-along, stretcher bar or the netting manufacturer's method. Ties go on after the material is tight.
  2. 2Start at the terminal post and work toward the middle so the tension stays even.
  3. 3Loop each tie around the post or rail and through the fabric, catching a wire or strand rather than just the edge of a mesh opening.
  4. 4Space ties evenly. On chain link, a common metal tie spacing is about 12 inches on line posts and 24 inches on the top rail; matching that with cable ties is a sensible minimum. For netting, many suppliers suggest a tie roughly every foot on each post.
  5. 5On smooth round posts, place the tie where it bears on a brace band or loops around a fabric wire so it cannot slide down the post.
  6. 6Pull snug but do not over-tension, especially on poly netting, which can tear at the tie.
  7. 7Cut tails flush with flush cutters and point heads to the inside of the fence, away from people and animals walking by.
  8. 8Walk the line after the first heavy wind or freeze and replace any tie that has loosened or cracked.
Face the heads the same way

On a visible fence, keeping every tie head on the same side and at the same height looks deliberate and makes later inspection faster, since a missing or broken tie stands out.

Windscreen and privacy screen: plan for wind

Screen fabric turns an open fence into a sail. The force on the fence and on each tie goes up sharply in strong wind, and a chain link fence that was never designed for screens can bend posts or pull footings. Follow the screen manufacturer's attachment spacing and ask the fence builder whether the posts and footings can take the added wind load.

Tie through every grommet, typically along the top, bottom and each post. Wind-rated screens often have vent flaps or a more open weave to let some air through. In areas with frequent high winds, check ties after each storm and consider removing screens seasonally.

Where cable ties are not enough

A cable tie's rating is a loop tensile strength: the load at which a new tie fails in a straight pull. It is not a working load, and sun, cold, animal rubbing and constant wind all reduce what a tie will hold over time.

  • Permanent chain link that needs to last many years: use tie wire and hog rings
  • High-tensile and woven wire livestock fence, where the wire carries real tension
  • Pens, corrals and runs holding cattle, horses, hogs or large dogs that push, jump or chew
  • Predator-proof poultry runs: attach hardware cloth with screws and washers or heavy staples, not ties alone
  • Pool barriers, security fence and any fence required by code, where the fastener must meet the design
  • Gate hinges, latches and anything that supports a gate's weight
  • Electric fence wire, which needs insulators matched to the charger

Choosing the right tie length for fence posts

Measure the distance around the post, add a couple of inches to pass through the fabric, and add a few inches of tail to grip and pull. The lengths below are rough starting points; post sizes vary, and a tie with a little extra tail is easier to tension than one that barely closes.

Approximate tie length by post or attachment (black UV ties)
AttachmentTypical lengthStrength
Netting to a top support wire or cable8 in120 lb
Screen grommet to chain link fabric8 to 12 in120 lb
Netting or light mesh to a T-post10 to 12 in120 lb
Fabric to a small round line post (roughly 1.5 to 2.5 in)14 to 16 in120 lb
Fabric to a larger terminal or gate post24 in175 lb
Around a 4x4 wood post, or a post plus a brace24 to 36 in175 lb

Buying ties for fence jobs

Fence work uses more ties than most people expect: several per post, more on terminal posts, more for screens, plus replacements. Buy black ties for every outdoor fence job, and keep one or two lengths on the truck rather than a dozen.

Nirah sells ties in bulk packs for installers, landscapers and farm supply buyers. If your company needs US-made product for a project, ask about the Stealth line, which is manufactured in the USA, and confirm it meets your specific procurement requirements. Business and wholesale accounts are available at /wholesale.

Frequently asked questions

Can you use zip ties on a chain link fence?

Yes, but they are best for temporary fence, repairs, screens and light-duty installs. For permanent chain link, aluminum or steel tie wire and hog rings are the standard because they do not degrade in sunlight. If you use cable ties, choose black UV-stabilized ties and inspect them periodically.

What size zip ties do I need for fence posts?

For small round line posts, 14 or 16 inch ties usually wrap the post and pass through the fabric with tail to spare. Netting on T-posts often needs only 10 or 12 inches. Larger terminal posts and wood posts typically need 24 or 36 inch ties.

How many zip ties per fence post?

Chain link installers commonly place fasteners about every 12 inches up a line post, so a 4 foot fence takes around 3 or 4 and a 6 foot fence around 5 or 6. Deer netting suppliers often suggest a similar one tie per foot. Use more on terminal posts and in windy spots.

How long do zip ties last on a fence?

It depends on the tie and the exposure. Ties that are not UV-stabilized can fail within months in direct sun. Black UV-stabilized ties last much longer but still age, faster in hot, sunny climates and cold, dry winters. Check the fence each year and replace faded or cracked ties.

Are zip ties strong enough for a deer fence?

Black UV-stabilized ties are a common way to attach poly deer netting to posts and support wires. The fence itself stops deer by height and visibility, not by strength, so the ties mainly need to hold the netting in position. Space them closely and replace any that break.

What is better for chain link, hog rings or zip ties?

For permanent chain link, hog rings for tension wire and tie wire for posts and rails are more durable because metal is unaffected by UV. Cable ties are quicker and need no special pliers, which makes them useful for temporary fence, screens and repairs.

Should fence zip ties be black or clear?

Black. Black ties are UV-stabilized for outdoor use. Natural or clear white ties are intended for indoor and general-purpose use and break down much faster in sunlight, so they are not a good choice for any fence.

Buying for a crew, a store or a project?

Business accounts get price-list pricing with quantity breaks, net terms once approved, tax-exempt purchasing with a resale certificate, and team logins.